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the #GrinMAC itself is supposed to be 8.4lb, but with the heavier spokes+rim and tire+tube (still 1.75in but going from kenda kontact to conti tour and a slime heavy-duty tube) The old hub+spokes+rim+tire+tube was 3.3lb, new stuff 12.7 (no cassette on either weight.)

chainstays need to get 8mm more between them, 130 original. Can I put a threaded rod between them and run two nuts outward? ...

we've arrived at 138, but that was hard work so now we're tired (but we're also "it would fit now, we could keep going")

Interference between the rack afixment screw protrusion and the torque arm being a much larger flat surface than many bikes might assume to fit there. Otherwise looking fine.

The chainstay steps down right where the torque arm mount needs to be, and I have smaller hose clamps with the same band. Do you cut those off or tuck the tail into shrink wrap or something?

Do I bend the torque arm? (No. ICYMI, Cold-bending aluminum is bad for fatigue life.)

Nut as a temporary spacer, seems like a good fit, will want it to be as wide as possible, so things won't try to twist there.

Currently seeking a ~1/4in thick piece of aluminum roughly 5/8 in diameter with a hole in the middle or I can drill it. The best bet for a starting point seems to be a piece of 4ft bar stock for $25 and a bunch of sawing and filing or somewhere can send me one for $20-50...

Trying to work around the spacer but I keep getting distracted by it. Meanwhile how do you get heat shrink onto a hose clamp band? #eBikes

Current status, two nylon washers as a spacer (as placement, not for motorized use) the rest fits but this is the hard way to face the screws of the hose clamps. Rode up the block, no battery, surprisingly little drag (or I'm just a beast)

Now I'm at "consider tape to protect the paint"... Does it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSSXumqJXNY

I took the seat off to get a better reach to mount the battery and now I'm cleaning the history out of in there

https://urbanists.social/@enobacon/110996812593450500

chain a little close to the battery but what if I put the front chainring on the same side of the crank as the stoker one () that's 3/8in farther out in the back

Soldering done
Making a bracket for the controller, cut cut drill drill ...

Water jet, but you drink the water and use a hacksaw and drill. #baserunner

Results

now to turn down these max current settings was set to 40A draw, 20A regen...

battery says 52V 14.5Ah max constant discharge current: 30A. charger: 58.8V 2A
LG4800mAh Cell 14S4P so 1C = 4 * 4.8A = 19.2A, but how about 0.3C = 5.76A?

Looking at the #cycleAnalyst and #baserunner settings and #GrinMAC with the bike on the workstand, trying to figure out the #regenBraking #eBikes thing #BikeTooter. From everything I've seen, it should be configured for brake lever + throttle to vary the amount of regen force, but I can't feel any difference while turning the cranks by hand, showing over 5mph on the CA. Should it be perceptible in the work stand, or what am I doing wrong?

Wider rim + different brake levers + no cable slack = never getting new brake pads or something (also the cable stop is on a part of the frame where the cable needs to get even slightly longer to take the slack out of the timing chain .)

https://urbanists.social/@enobacon/111014340108745277

This is a neat coupler for this #bikeFriday packable tandem brake cable, the rear part uses a road lever end, even though it's v brakes

Still stuck on #regenBraking not working? The brake signal is clearly getting to the controller, I'm checking the settings but not finding clear documentation, and posts about it online are mentioning settings, like regen phase current, that aren't in the app?

Nowhere to export the current settings to a file? (+ values no change after autotune ) Should I be using the linux app instead of the android one (apparently need to do that for the CA app anyway, doing this on a chromebook, hopefully can run it on linux mode...)

I did see -4W on the display when cranking at 15mph and engaging the front brake. I guess it's working and even the nylon spacers seem to be doing fine but I think cutting that chunk of aluminum is my final step before we go ride.

I was able to see the regen and brake lights come on in the dashboard, not seeing 19A regen though, bumping that limit up to 1C seems to be part of it but where is the -1100W reading? I'm not feeling anywhere near that amount of resistance. (What does that 1C charge rate do to a cold battery?)

I guess the resistance is palpable around 20mph, still not seeing any charging indicated beyond ~4W. (Maybe that's a one-hand-cranked power level with about 40% recovery efficiency?)

How much does a bike trainer stand weigh without the resistance bit #BikeTooter? (The kind that holds each end of your axle.) Can I get an axle-mounted kickstand (for 20in wheel) that would hold it up so we could ride it stationary to charge the #eBike? #EVcharging

Rear derailer rubbing the spokes on the motor a bit, 3/4 turn on the low limit, maybe needs the same for high, and a cable adjustment (entire cluster sits a smidge to the right. Regen definitely not showing a lot of stopping power but I only had one car-infested hill to test on

So the problem here was the android app - missing some parameters but the linux one runs fine on a chromebook with VM so we're off to the races (the stopping races, but I gotta tune down the max regen phase current maybe? The 80A had it coming on like a stick in the spokes, especially with ebrake=.49 and the 0.8-0.0V range mapped for #regenBraking.) #GrinMAC #eBikes

I took it for a short ride with these settings and I'm pretty pleased. My ebrake=0.75V, 40A regen phase current, 12A max regen battery current.

I don't like the brake+throttle modulation scheme though, especially because I think the throttle switches to that much "go" when you let off the brake . Thinking about how I use it, I would probably just want the brake switch to engage a speed limiter, and if I slow down slightly with mechanical braking (or throttle modulation) limit to that speed.